Nightcrawler Worm

How to Make a Nightcrawler Worm Farm

The day is cloudy and rainy here in downtown Ohio, which doesn’t seem like ideal if you are looking for creatures, unless these are worms.

Today I’m going to show you how to make a worm farm and the first thing we need are worms, so let’s go for them.

Nothing like looking for worms in the rain.

Watch this.

It’s one of the good guys.

I have it.

Oh yeah.

What a good worm.

Come here mate How elusive.

Tremendous worm!

Okay, to the container!

Watch this.

Okay, about 50 worms in half an hour.

I’d say it’s time to start building our worm farm.

Okay, we’re back.

It is time to build the farm.

Let’s look at the worm first.

We have already talked about them in the past, and all of them are segmented annelids.

Leeches are a family of worms of land, believe me or not, but we have never talked about something so common like a worm.

This is a very easy species to see in the backyard, and, you see, the earthworm is an invasive species here in the United States.

They originally came from Europe in the 19th century, settlers brought them when colonizing America and, at this point, we can’t get rid of them.

Nothing happens, because they are doing something good aerating the earth and enriching it with nutrients.

Well it’s a simple creature, okay It has no eyes as such but it has a mouth, here, and in the back he has ass and in fact it just pooped, so that answers the question.

Yes, they poop.

Look, he’s pooping all over the table.

It’s like a somewhat runny poop.

But the main structure of the worm is in the upper third of your body.

Your brain, heart and stomach they are in this ring that looks like a saddle, usually purple in color.

It is called clitellus, and this little organ here creates thick, slimy mucus and when a worm lays its eggs, that’s where they come from.

Well the worm has a very long stomach and a wide digestive tract with several stomachs along the body so this is where digestion is happening, and when you bring the worm to the light, you can see all the dirt and fecal material that seeps through your body, and then, as we have seen does nothing, would come out of his anus, which is at the end of the queue.

These segmented worms are very, very cool when they are completely elongated, the small parapodia can be seen on the sides of the body.

You may wonder

How does a worm move through the environment?

They dig tunnels that they make themselves, they advance eating through an underground labyrinth, and these little parapodia, these stick to dirty walls and propel the animal forward.

When it comes to injuring a worm, Well you could say Coyote Can you hold a worm like that?

They have no skeleton as such, like mammals, reptiles or birds.

In fact, they have no skeleton, no exoskeleton.

The worms are totally soft, although they can be injured.

If you harm a worm above the citelium, your brain, your heart, or your stomach, yes, that would kill the worm.

However, if the worm loses a piece from its rear, in time it will come out again.

The cool thing about worms is that they play a very positive role in the ecosystem destroying all old plant matter found in the forest.

Some worms even eat carrion, which are dead animals.

I never thought a worm could be so fascinating.

At this point I would say it’s time to start building the worm farm.

In half an hour I have collected I’d say about 50 worms and many of them were a good size.

They are earthworms.

But build a farm it’s not as complex as it can stop, and to be clear, There are two different types of worm farms.

One is made for compost.

That is not the farm we will do.

We are going to do the simplest of all.

The one in which you admire worms in a small container that you own.

Well recommend a clear container like this.

Place them in a transparent container and then inside a dark will do make worms more comfortable and you put the worms inside the container like this to prevent them from direct light.

Well to build the farm for raising nightcrawlers for fishingwe need the right materials.

We have the gravel, the sticks, the bed of leaves, the dirt of the worm, and our container, of course.

The first thing we want to do is a cape gravel at the base.

A little around here.

The finer the better.

And that has to do with drainage.

Just as the worms eat and you water its environment, the must will seep towards the base of the farm.

And that helps the droppings, the worm poop, to go to the bottom too.

Then you want to add some soil for worms.

Remember, things are going to get serious so do it outside it can be a very good idea.

And you want to make sure you have some land, oh, it’s everywhere, land that is real.

Okay, the crumbled dirt will help the worms to be able to move better.

The next thing we want to do is to place the bed of leaves.

I’ve gone out for a few.

I always say that the wetter the better.

Wet leaves decompose sooner.

You don’t want to put dry leaves because they will take the water from the worms.

Well, putting the layers on, what you want to have too it’s a bottle of water for worms.

With just a little water, throw it over the layers.

You don’t want it to get soggy but neither you want it to be dry.

Okay, with the bed of leaves in place, now a few branches.

These normal branches that are already dead will create some space for the worms to move underneath.

It’s like a gym for worms, we would say.

And they can be buried there and now add another layer of soil.

Well, there there.

A little more leaves, and in the end, finally, the worms.

You can throw them one by one, place them in different areas.

Ok, mario, what do you think if you take a picture of them.

– [Mario] Sure.

– It looks like a disgusting worm cake.

Well, they don’t need much care.

A couple of times a week sprinkle them with water.

Before placing the lid in the worm farm, because you want to cover it, so they don’t go away.

You want to make a few holes at the top.

It is so that there is oxygen, and that the worms can breathe.

There you have it.

A worm farm.

It is not a pet to always have.

I recommend releasing them after a few weeks, if not, at least change the earth, because the nutrients will have already been eaten.

The good thing about the land is that you can put it in your garden or in some plants, and is full of nutrients and minerals that worms have contributed with their poop.

How cool, huh?

There you have the worm farm.

Well I know you’re a little skeptical you wonder, Coyote, What can you do with a worm farm?

They are great pets!

You can take them to the park to play, you can watch tv with them.

In the end, they make good pets.

I’m Coyote Peterson, be brave and wild see you on the next adventure.

Do you want to watch some Netflix?

Okay okay, that’s fine with me.

Mario shakes his head.

Your research tells you it’s going to hurt.

It’s for the best, I’m telling you.

I know, and then Mario came to the office.

He said: do you know what I have to eat today?

What about me?

And it says a turkey sandwich, and I

I couldn’t believe it.

I have the worms, I have them.

Good!

There we go, Animal Planet Go, Brave the Wild, new episodes, what do you think.

Ok, let’s see how Coyote catches creatures.

These potatoes are delicious.

You want?

Not?

What about you, Gary?

I already imagined.

Lazy people don’t eat potatoes.

Have you seen that?

 

Goose Eggs

Production and Incubation Goose Eggs

Goose egg creation

The primary egg-laying period for geese is in the spring, initiating about August or September. Chinese varieties can begin laying in winter. Support early occasional egg creation, so goslings are of attractive age and weight in an ideal opportunity for the Christmas market.

  • Richness will be up to 15% higher and bring forth capacity up to 20% higher with develop female geese than with 1-year-old geese.
  • As geese normally lay toward the beginning of the day, gather eggs late in the first part of the day to diminish the opportunity of egg breakages, and gather eggs in any event four times each day.
  • Since most eggs are laid promptly toward the beginning of the day, it is best not to give geese admittance to swimming offices until some other time in the first part of the day, in any case eggs might be lost. As referenced before, swimming improves the state of geese for the most part and assists with keeping them clean, which thus assists with keeping eggs clean.
  • Geese normally lay a grip of 12–15 eggs and afterward go broody.

Beginning stage of egg creation can be empowered by the accompanying:

  • Hereditary choice and cross-rearing. Chinese varieties are preferable egg makers over Toulouse or Emden breeds, yet their littler body is an inconvenience. Cross-rearing the Chinese variety with either Toulouse or Emden produces reproducing load of satisfactory egg creation and carcase.
  • Utilization of fake light. This will incite beginning stage of egg creation, as it does in laying hens (see Primefact 604 – Lighting of poultry).
  • Improved nourishment. Put geese in broody coops when they go broody. On the off chance that geese are permitted to stay broody without being checked, egg creation will be genuinely influenced.

To diminish the occurrence of egg breakages, give home boxes (appeared at right) and empower their utilization for laying. Line them with reasonable settling material, for example, shavings or straw, and permit one 50 cm × 50 cm home box for each three geese in the herd. It is ideal to have home boxes in the shed and all through the yard if enormous yards are utilized.

Brooding

Normal brooding produces the best level of goslings incubated. Utilizing geese to incubate out their own goslings is costly and inefficient, since geese are not laying while they are perched on the eggs. Turkeys, hens and Muscovy ducks might be utilized acceptably to bring forth out goslings — best outcomes will be acquired from Muscovy ducks (which are truly geese). Goose eggs can be brought forth falsely, yet results are better if Muscovies are utilized.

  • Eggs ought to be gathered at any rate twice (ideally multiple times) every day, and, as geese lay the greater part of their eggs toward the beginning of the day, the majority of the eggs will be gathered toward the beginning of the day.
  • Eggs for hatching ought to be put away in a cool room at 15°C — an airconditioned or refrigerated bureau is ideal. Turn eggs every day (see Table 1). The more drawn out the eggs are kept more than 7 days, the less fortunate the bring forth results.
  • Select just uncracked eggs weighing at any rate 140 g and close to 200 g. Clean those eggs that are filthy by delicately scouring with steel fleece and cleaning with a spotless moist fabric. Eggs should be dealt with and put away thusly paying little mind to the technique for brooding.
  • Eggs can be sterilized by disinfecting them following assortment.
  • The real time of brooding of goose eggs fluctuates somewhat with the variety. A few eggs from the lighter varieties may begin pipping following 28 days, while eggs from the bigger varieties may take 35 days. It might take as long as 3 days for incubating to be finished.

Common brooding

Contingent upon the size of the winged animal, 4–6 eggs might be set under a broody hen while a Muscovy duck may sit on 6–8 eggs. Since the eggs are excessively huge for most hens to turn without anyone else, turn the eggs by hand every day when the hens leave the home to eat and drink. Following 15 days, eggs ought to be sprinkled with tepid water each time they are turned.

Candling, that is, passing eggs under a brilliant electric light to see the substance, can be done on the tenth day and all fruitless eggs eliminated.

Where a goose is to be utilized for bring forth out the eggs, 10–15 eggs might be put under her (the quantity of eggs relies upon the size of the eggs and the size of the goose). On the off chance that geese approach swimming offices, the eggs need not be sprinkled with water.

Counterfeit hatching

Except if machines are appropriately overseen, goose eggs don’t bring forth very well in counterfeit hatcheries. Incubates regularly are no in a way that is better than 40% of the eggs set, despite the fact that fruitfulness is about 90%. This is a direct result of helpless administration and on the grounds that hatcheries accessible in Australia are not made explicitly for geese.

With constrained draft machines, keep up a steady temperature of 37.5°C all through the brooding time frame. The ideal dampness will be gotten if the wet bulb thermometer is kept at a perusing of 32.2°C to the 29th day. At that point increment it to 34°C for the remainder of the brooding time, utilizing dampness plate and altering the ventilation.

Hatcheries with a moderate air development over the eggs will bring forth goose eggs in a way that is better than those with a quick air development. Slow air development guarantees total conveyance of air over all pieces of the egg to keep up uniform and equivalent dissipation.